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Authentic Tuscany at La Novellina by Catherine Sweeney

5 July 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Art & Culture, Food & Wine, Itineraries

View from La Novellina of olive groves, rolling hills and the Val di Pesa

July 2, 2015

When I think of Tuscany, I picture the wonderful food and wine of the region with a backdrop of a golden afternoon sun on beautiful vistas of vineyards, olive groves and green hills. Anticipating our trip there, I hoped to have an experience that this picture epitomized and from our first welcome to the day we said goodbye, my expectations were met, beginning with our stay at La Novellina, a luxury Tuscany villa near Fiano, about 20 miles from Florence.

La Novellina: A simple Tuscan lifestyle

After a long day of travel from San Francisco to Florence, ivy-covered La Novellina villa was a welcoming sight.Luisa Castiglioni, who has owned the villa since 1980, greeted us at the door with a hearty welcome and introduced us to her son Nic and Monica, one of the “gifted women and men” that has shared her dream of preserving the authenticity and culture of the area and contributing to the land. Initially restoring the historic building and property as a place for her family to enjoy the simple Tuscan lifestyle, Luisa has been renting the villa for the past 25 years to others so they can experience the beauty and peacefulness of the setting while enjoying the wonderful food, wine, culture, and other highlights of Tuscany.

With Luisa Castiglioni on the dining terrace of La Novellina

La Novellina’s historic location

Imagine the history that has unfolded in this serene setting of the Val di Pesa (Valley of the River Pesa) and rolling hills of Tuscany. As I took in the lovely scenery around me at La Novellina from my seat at breakfast our first morning in Tuscany, I tried to grasp the enormity of the past — the battles of the Romans with the Etruscans; the building of the Roman road, the main route connecting Rome to France and Spain and the centuries of travelers and pilgrimages; the fall of the Roman Empire; occupation by “barbarians” and the Dark Ages; and wars between Florence, Siena, and Pisa. The turbulence of many past times was a fascinating contrast and hard to imagine happening at the idyllic sights before me with the sounds of birds chirping on a fresh May morning.

Morning view of Tuscan hills and Val di Pesa from the terrace of La Novellina

Situated atop a hill with excellent vantage points of the area for many miles, La Novellina has a compelling history of its own. The renovated farmhouse includes a one-thousand-year-old restored tower which served as a vital watchtower for centuries with its panoramic views of the Via Francigena, the famous road from Florence to Rome in the Val di Pesa below.

La Novellina’s ancient tower in the center of the villa
and the Val di Pesa

Rivalries during the 13^th and 14^th centuries between Siena (loyal to the Holy Roman Emperor) and Florence (ally of the Pope) resulted in numerous clashes in the area and castles and villages were repeatedly destroyed. The Castle of Santa Maria Novella, located on another hill behind the villa, was one of those continuously damaged and rebuilt until 1500.

All the fighting and conquests! Although those times are gone, the history, culture and traditions of the area are still part of what makes La Novellina special and give the location a dramatic allure.

The nature of La Novellina

On the estate’s 69 acres, there are 1500 olive trees (for making their own extra virgin olive oil), vegetable and herb gardens, and 4000 bees for honey. Traditions are reflected in the use of natural ingredients in meal preparation and using their own produce and both maximizing sustainability and minimizing environmental impact. Nic is the inspiration behind and caretaker of La Novellina’s commitment to organic and sustainable methods and staying true to Tuscan traditions in use of the land. Under Nic’s hands-on management, they aspire to the best organic techniques in the products they grow and sustainable practices preserving water and the earth.

Nic sampling fresh honey, steps to the garden, fresh flowers and organic products of La Novellina

Creating an authentic experience

Luisa believes in creating an authentic experience for La Novellina guests that accentuates the traditions and distinct characteristics of the area. Surrounded by the beautiful Tuscany landscapes, guests can engage in activities such as cooking classes, visits to medieval villages, and wine tastings with local vintners to become more immersed in the culture. Or if they choose, guests can simply relax in style at the villa and appreciate the joys of life under the Tuscan sun.

Traditional style of a Tuscany luxury villa

The villa’s ambiance is that of relaxed luxury with traditional Tuscan decor, a comfortable country style with antique furnishings that complement the natural surroundings.

La Novellina can accommodate 9 people in 5 bedrooms and 4 bathrooms — ideal for family gatherings (such as reunions, weddings, or anniversaries) which account for a large percentage of their bookings. Comfort, warmth, and charm is found in each of the rooms.

La Novellina master bedroom and bath

We stayed in the master bedroom located in the old tower section of the villa with a large window that provided views (and sounds) of the olive groves and the Val di Pesa. In the morning, I was surprised to hear the sound of a real cuckoo for the first time in my life! The bathroom that adjoined the master bedroom was large, comfortable and nicely appointed with a large adjacent walk-in closet.

The other bedrooms (2 of them shown above) were similarly charmingly decorated. One of the two living areas (shown bottom right above), was once a kitchen and key gathering place where farmhouse residents could talk and stay warm by the fire. Before going to bed each night and also before breakfast each day, we enjoyed spending a little time there to relax and catch up with online tasks. A porch outside the room provides a wonderful place to relax and enjoy the Tuscan scenery.

As is often the case in Italy, the kitchen is the heart of the traditional home. I quickly took to the morning ritual of coming downstairs and enjoying Monica’s cheerful greeting and the aroma of fresh-baked pastries she prepared for us each day. Breakfast included other light Italian breakfast items and was served on the terrace or at the cozy table in the kitchen.

Monica Bartarelli in the kitchen of La Novellina

A welcome dinner is offered to guests on their first night and can be requested for additional evenings, which I would highly recommend. During our stay, Monica prepared and served many tasty dishes, including scrumptious risotto, cannelloni, bruschetta, salads, and her amazing pastries — all using where possible La Novellina produce or locally grown foods. The Torta della Nonna, the traditional “Grandmother’s Cake” (bottom left), served for dessert on our first night was so delicious that we were eager to have a leftover slice with breakfast the next morning.

Delicious meals and pastries prepared by Monica Bartarelli at La Novellina

To get a taste of a local restaurant one evening, we had a hearty and simple pasta dinner at C’era una Volta, a cozy trattoria in the little village of Lucardo, about a 5 minute drive from the villa. We enjoyed the meal, atmosphere, and dining with the locals and would recommend it as a dinner option when staying at the villa.

Although the spring weather was warm, we didn’t have time in our busy schedule for pool activities. But I can imagine what a treat it would be to sun and swim in the pool adjacent to the villa while enjoying magnificent views similar to those from the La Novellina terrace.

A special afternoon with Susanna

Susanna Civeli is a private concierge and personal chef who welcomes guests to La Novellina and can also arrange and lead tours and cooking classes. Accompanied by Susanna, we spent an afternoon in her hometown, Barberino Val d’Elsa, a small medieval village about five miles from the villa. Culture and heritage are very important to the residents of Barberino Val d’Elsa and Susanna pointed out the places that are meaningful to her and other residents. The ancient walls and gates were the most prominent features as we entered the town. It was clear that Susanna loves this village as we strolled Via Francesco da Barberino (the main street) and passed by her home, a house down the street where she previously lived, the nearby house of her father, and the places where she spends time with friends.

Strolling Barberino Val d’Elsa with Susanna Civeli

This medieval village is on the boundary between the provinces of Florence and Siena has seen much of the turbulent history of the region. Fortified for protection, it was an important defense for the Florentine Republic in its battles with Siena. In recent years, the village has been undergoing new growth and renewed interest in traditions with local artisans creating traditional Tuscan food, wine, and other products.

A very popular shop in the village is Bojola Country, a boutique of leather and specialty fabric goods made exclusively in Tuscany using natural raw materials. The talented and creative owner and designer is Fiamma Lazzeri, who we had the pleasure of meeting while visiting the shop.

Francesco Bojola Boutique in Barberino Val d’Elsa with Susanna Civeli and Fiamma Lazzeri

At Pasolini dall’Onda Borghese, we enjoyed the hospitality of Massimo Castagnozzi, as we toured the wine cellar and olive mill, and sampled their Chianti Classico and Vin Santo.

The Pasolini family has been producing high quality wines for over 400 years. The wine cellars (which were once dungeons) that actually lie beneath the main street of the village include thousands of bottles of their vintages of Chianti, Chianti Classico, Vin Santo, a Tuscan Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon blend, and two white wines based on Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. The cellar also houses an impressive number of very old bottles from the family’s private collection which are kept as reminders of historically good years and not intended for drinking. Pasolini dall’Onda also produces olive oil using centuries old production techniques with modern mill equipment. On our tour of the olive mill we saw the grindstones and other devices that were used in centuries past.

Touring the olive mill and wine cellars with Massimo Castagnozzi at Pasolini dall’Onda

On the rooftop of Pasolini dall’Onda, we got a wonderful view of Chianti’s vineyards and farms. From there Massimo pointed out the dividing line that separates the very special Chianti Classico subregion from the rest of the Chianti district.

To end the afternoon, we joined locals on the patio at La Spinosa wine shop for a glass of their light and crisp Marugale white wine while we chatted with one of the owners, Gianfranco Ossola. La Spinosa strictly uses organic growing methods on its farm of 70 hectares of vineyards and olive trees and since 1994 has been certified as an organic grower by the CCPB (Consortium for the Control of Organically Grown Products of Bologna). In the shop they serve (and sell) their wines as well as local cheeses and other products and gifts.

La Spinosa wine shop

Other nearby places of interest

You could spend a week or two at La Novellina, never leave the property, and have a gratifying Tuscan experience. However, its location offers access to almost any of the types of activities one would imagine in a trip to Tuscany. With Luisa’s and her staff’s help, we were able to experience a number of these.

We spent a wonderful day in the stunning Renaissance city of Florence which is only about 45 minutes away. We also enjoyed our visits to the Antinori wine estate in Bargino, the medieval towns of Certaldo and San Gimignano, a cheese-maker in San Casciano, and more places of interest which we’ll tell you about in future posts. So stay tuned for more about our excursions during our 4-night stay at La Novellina.

Arrivederci, La Novellina

Leaving La Novellina
Novellina Tuscany!

Imagine … a friendly kiss. What better way to end our stay at La Novellina in warm and authentic Tuscany!

Farewell kiss from Monica as we leave La Novellina

Grazie to La Novellina for making our authentic Tuscany experience possible

Catherine Sweeney

Travelling with Sweeney

The Fresh Essence of Tuscany at La Fattoria by Catherine Sweeney

15 June 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Art & Culture, Food & Wine, Itineraries, Restaurants

Dining al fesco at La Fattoria in Tuscany

Alice’s words nicely summarize many of the highlights of our first Tuscany visit. Tuscan hospitality, lifestyle, flavors, and scenery came together for us many times throughout our stay in the region. I really like when the last day of a visit to a place positively reaffirms the impressions you’ve gotten during the rest of the trip and that’s exactly what happened during the final day of our Tuscany tour. We especially savored many aspects of the essence of Tuscany with Dizzi Alfons, owner of the luxury villa, La Fattoria and our guide Alice Dami, whose culinary talents were also a highlight of our day.

But before we take you to lunch, let’s sample some of the flavors and freshness introduced to us by Alice to on our way to La Fattoria from Lucca, through the countryside and villages of Lucca province. This rural area is rich in agriculture — vineyards, olive groves, and farms producing many of the fresh products we enjoyed during our stay in Tuscany.

Wine and high spirits

We began at Enoteca Vino e Convivio, a family-owned wine and food shop located in the village of Guamo, just a few miles from Lucca’s city center. Not only did we get to see a place where locals shop, but we were treated with the hospitality of husband and wife owners Giovanni and Giuseppina and buyer and wine consultant Lido, who first offered us coffee and then showed us around the relatively new shop (having moved from their original location of many years).

Indulging in Italian meats, cheeses, and Chianti while enjoying laughs and conversation at Enoteca Vino e Convivio with Alice, Lido, and Giuseppina

The walls of each of the four rooms were lined with shelves holding fine wines from around the world (primarily Italy and France), spirits, and local foods. The counter in the main entry room displays typical Italian meat specialties and Italian and French cheeses. There’s something for everyone, even vegetarians like Mr. TWS. Each room had a table and chairs for guests to relax, enjoy a glass of wine, and talk to friends in a comfortable setting. Their open hours are on the Vino e Convivio website, and I found it fun that it notes that the food section is closed on Saturdays from 3.30 p.m. to 7.00 p.m. because “Giuseppina needs to rest!!!”

It was still morning when our friendly and generous hosts served us assorted Italian hams and cheeses accompanied by one of the region’s signature Chianti Classico vintages. It was a great way to start our last day, and I thought it would take nothing to get me used to la dolce vita of Tuscany.

Getting fresh

From Enoteca Vino e Convivio we headed to another small village, Pieve di Compito, to visit Frantoio Sociale del Compitese, a cooperative of over 1000 olive oil producers that includes an olive mill and market.

Legumes and vegetables, Canestrino heirloom tomatoes, olive mill tour with Elisa

We took a short tour of the olive mill, although it was not running since it wasn’t harvest season. As we learned in other parts of Tuscany and during our Provence trip in December, olive production was devastated last year by an insect that destroyed nearly all of this part of Mediterranean Europe’s olive crop.

We also got an insider’s look at another place where the locals shop for the best of fresh produce, pasta, honey, cheese, and other staples of Italian cuisine. We saw a steady stream of local shoppers, most of whom seemed to be regulars knowing exactly what they needed and quickly making their purchases. I was craving a taste of the Canestrino tomatoes, a type of heirloom tomato distinctive in the Lucca area.

Glorious gelato

When in Italy, you must have gelato, and we were pleased to watch the process and sample the sumptuous offerings at what is said to be one of the best gelaterias in Tuscany at Pappagrappa.

Freshly-made chocolate gelato, cones and specialty desserts at Pappagrappa

Owner and gelato-maker Marco uses only the freshest ingredients in his organic approach. He says that his key objective in starting the company 14 years ago was to use only the best ingredients, and whenever possible, local products, such as sheep’s milk and fruit from nearby farms. For other ingredients, he selects the best from other places known worldwide for having the very finest, such as pistachios from Sicily and chocolate from Ecuador. It was the first time we’d seen someone making waffle cones manually and at Pappagrappa they are handmade fresh on site every day. The care in the selection of ingredients and preparation certainly showed in the finished product — the gelato was delicious.

Relaxing at the villa

Ready for lunch and eager to see La Fattoria, an EsteVillas holiday rental property, we turned off the main road outside of Pieve di Compito toward this beautifully restored 17th-century farmhouse. Tucked away down a narrow gravel road surrounded by woods and gardens, La Fattoria gives guests a feeling of luxurious seclusion while restaurants, shopping, and attractions are within easy reach.

La Fattoria

Having already met the villa’s owner, Dizzi Alfons, by chance at Pappagrappa earlier (he was buying dessert for our lunch), we already felt like friends as we were warmly greeted by him at the house

Alice happily at work preparing lunch in the sunny, spacious La Fattoria kitchen

While Alice got busy in the villa’s large and bright kitchen, Dizzi took us to the covered patio to talk and sample his homemade elderberry juice drink (made with elderberry flowers, water, sugar, lemons, lemon peel, mint, a little tonic) — a totally refreshing concoction. Alice had also prepared for us Olives Ascolane (stuffed olives lightly breaded and fried) as an antipasto. They were so tasty that if I hadn’t wanted to save room for lunch, I would have devoured them all.

Olives Ascolane and elderberry juice on the garden patio at La Fattoria

Dizzi, an Austrian who fell in love with Tuscany many years ago, spoke of his background in the fashion industry, his travels, and how he came to acquire this lovely property. His enthusiasm and sincere appreciation of Tuscany were similar to sentiments I heard often during our visit, whether from lifelong Tuscans or those from other places who had made the region their home. It was a treat to be sipping our drinks on this warm, sunny day in this idyllic setting with a backdrop of the villa’s grassy knolls and flowering gardens. I warned Dizzi that it might be difficult to get us to leave!

Dining al fresco

What could be better than dining al fresco in Tuscany with a meal prepared by our own cook? Alice says that the bounty of fresh ingredients available in Tuscany inspires her cooking, and she uses only the freshest, locally-sourced ingredients. We felt very fortunate to sample her creations at La Fattoria, dining on the terrace with Dizzi.

La Fattoria’s outdoor dining terrace

Alice talked about the key to Tuscan dishes — their simplicity, relying on fresh, local ingredients from trusted suppliers, such as the extra virgin olive oil she buys from local mills.

Our delicious lunch, burrata cheese with anchovies and cherry tomatoes followed by fresh egg pasta with asparagus, was topped off with a delectable assortment of gelato flavors. We were so eager to indulge that we forgot to take photos of the dessert!

Lunch prepared by Alice Dami at La Fattoria: Fresh egg pasta with asparagus, burrata with cherry tomatoes and anchovies

Alice was right when she said, “If you cook, you’ll make others happy. If you cook, people will remember you.” But I know that we will also remember Alice for her excellent guidance, enthusiasm, and vibrant personality.

As we relished the afternoon, our conversation with Dizzi and Alice was lively and informative, covering topics such Italian colloquialisms, life in Tuscany, tips about Rome (which was our next destination) and amusing personal stories. Dizzi and Alice were so warm and made us feel so comfortable with them. It was characteristic of the many people we met on our visit.

The look of luxury

Before leaving, we toured the rooms of the villa — six bedrooms, four bathrooms, living areas, and kitchen which were all restored in 2012. I loved the décor that seamlessly combined the original architecture and antiques with contemporary furniture and decorations, highlighting aspects of the historic villa while offering modern comfort.

The lovely décor of and views from the rooms of La Fattoria

As we explored the bright, colorful and tastefully decorated interior, I was thinking about which of the six bedrooms would be my favorite. Each room, including the spacious bathrooms, had a warm ambiance and lovely pastoral views of the grounds, beautiful flora, the hills and countryside.

Enjoying the cheery sitting room in La Fattoria

As we went room to room, Mr. TWS and I could easily imagine staying there with a group of family and friends. What fun that would be!

The pool at La Fattoria

The pool situated in a large expanse of lawn just above the villa was tempting on this warm day in May, especially for Mr. TWS who loves being in the water.

The villa has a private chapel on the premises that adds to its appeal and I think would be great if celebrating a small wedding or wedding anniversary. Now that’s an idea for another reason to return.

Arrivederci La Fattoria and Tuscany!

We said our goodbyes to Alice and Dizzi making our way along the garden path to our car, taking several glances back and wondering when we might come back to hike, bike, eat, drink, relax and soak up more of the fresh essence of Tuscany.

The chapel at La Fattoria

Grazie to EsteVillas, Dizzi Alfons, and Alice Dami for making our last day in Tuscany so special.

Take a look at the EsteVillas website for details and booking information for La Fattoria and other properties in their collection. Mention “Traveling with Sweeney” and you’ll get a discount based on the length and location of your stay!

Travelling with Sweeney –

Posted by Catherine Sweeney on june 15 2015

Villa la Fattoria Lucca countryside

Alice Dami guide and cook in Lucca

Vino e Convivio wineshop Via di Coselli, 6, 55012 Lucca LU

Frantoio Sociale Campitese Via di Tiglio, 609, Provincia di Lucca

Pappagrappa, via Sottomonte Massa malcinaia Capannori Lucca

A Touch of Tuscany by Catherine Sweeney

2 June 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Art & Culture, Food & Wine, Itineraries, Uncategorized

Highlights of a week in northern Tuscany

A week in Tuscany is not nearly enough time to gain anything but a preliminary knowledge of the region, even if just focusing on its northern part. However, it’s enough to feel the pull it has on the hearts of visitors and understand why residents are so proud of their home. It was also enough time for us to experience some wonderful activities that we can recommend for your own visits. In future posts, Mr. TWS and I will have more to share about the many reasons we loved Tuscany, but here are a few highlights of our Tuscan experience.

View of Val di Pesa from La Novellina in Tuscany

Seeing the famous sights

Florence and Pisa are well-known tourist-attraction venues, so be prepared for crowds of tourists but don’t miss their many must-see sights.

In Pisa, we took the climb to the top of the leaning tower which we thought was worth it for the views of the rooftops of the city and the surrounding area. Mr. TWS thought the tower leaned more than he’d expected, and I agree. I felt a little woozy because of the tower’s unevenness of the floor as we first entered the tower and started climbing. The tower itself actually seemed more beautiful to me than I’d seen in pictures. The subtle shades of the marble facade really stood out more than in photos. While waiting for your turn to tour the tower, have lunch or a coffee on one of the touristy, but still nice adjacent streets.

Famous attractions: Pisa — Leaning Tower of Pisa; Florence — Ponte Vecchio and Il Duomo di Firenze

It’s no wonder that Florence is a top city for visitors to Italy. With its history, architecture, bridges, cathedrals, piazzas and museums, it’s an amazing place to visit. Even on this rainy day, for us Florence shined as a Renaissance treasure. While walking along both sides of the Arno River and from the bridges, we enjoyed views of the Ponte Vecchio (Old Bridge). The majestic Duomo di Firenze (Florence Cathedral) mesmerizes with its size and beauty. We were focused on getting a good introduction to Florence during a short day trip so only admired its exterior, but we’ve put a longer tour of Florence and key sights on our must-do list for our next time in Tuscany.

Being surprised

Part of the fun of visiting places for the first time is learning about and doing things that are unexpected. These were just a few things that surprised us during our week in northern Tuscany.

The coastside city of Viareggio, quarries of the Apuan Alps, bicycling on the walls of Lucca, art in Pietrasanta, Santa Novella Pharmacy in Florence

The coastside city of Viareggio, quarries of the Apuan Alps, bicycling on the walls of Lucca, art in Pietrasanta, Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy in Florence

Tuscany is not just about vineyards, rolling hills, and quaint villages. The beach towns of Viareggio and Forte Dei Marmi attract summer vacationers to their resorts and villas along the Versilia coast of the Mediterranean.
I didn’t expect to see marble quarries on the hillsides of the Apuane Alps. These quarries extract the abundant high-quality marble there that has been used for centuries in great buildings and for creating the timeless art of sculptors such as Michelangelo.
Pietrasanta is a surprising artisic gem with its public art installations, galleries, and marble-carving studios. It is also home to master mosaic artist Piero Giannoni, whose creations are seen around the world.
In Florence, we admired the decor, artifacts, and product displays, while sampling fragrances at Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy which is said to be the oldest still-operating pharmacy in the world. Formulas of the monks who originally established the pharmacy in the 13th century are still being used. Imagine that!
I like bicycling (primarily on flat surfaces) and got a special treat riding bikes along the top of the ancient city walls of Lucca, an area designated for pedestrians and bicycles only. Not only did it provide an opportunity for fresh air and exercise, but it was great for getting an overhead view of the city while watching locals stroll the tree-lined path.

Walking and wandering

Each of the cities and towns, large and small, that we visited in northern Tuscany had its own charm and unique appeal, but all were a pleasure to explore on foot, even when getting a bit off track as we did one evening in Lucca. Our footsteps took us all around Florence, Certaldo Alto, San Gimignano, Barberino Val d’Elsa, Pietrasanta, and Lucca. On many occasions, we were aided by wonderful local guides who explained the importance, history, or uniqueness of the sights and introduced us to local shop owners.

Strolling the streets of Lucca, Certaldo Alto and Pietrasanta

Wining and dining

For me, quintessential Tuscan dining experiences are those enjoyed al fresco with views of serene countryside or bustling piazzas. Besides finding great traditional cuisine in the restaurants of Tuscany, we indulged in tasting the local fare at the villas where we stayed or visited, cheese makers, wineries, olive mills, specialty wine and food shops, and fresh markets. And let’s not forget the gelaterias!

Tasty specialties of Tuscany – cheese (Fattoria Corzano e Paterno), wine (Pasolini dell’Onda), ham (Enoteca e Convivio), gelato (Pappa Grappa), and fresh produce (Frantoio Sociale)

Tasty specialties of Tuscany – cheese (Fattoria Corzano e Paterno), wine (Pasolini dall’Onda), ham (Enoteca e Convivio), gelato (Pappa Grappa), and fresh produce (Frantoio Sociale)

Dotting the hillsides and valleys of Chianti and other areas of Tuscany are vast expanses of olive groves and vineyards, many of which are small, family-owned operations that welcome visitors for tastings and tours. The large Antinori wine estate is visually impressive with its modern architecture in a pastoral setting in Bargino that offers public tours and tastings as well.

Driving

On our trip, we especially enjoyed our drives through the picturesque countryside and small villages. There were beautiful vistas at every turn and also some serendipitous finds. Renting a car as we did will give you spontaneity and flexibility in seeing Tuscany’s beauty. Driving a Ferrari in Tuscany seems very popular (and we saw quite a few), but that didn’t fit our budget. Whatever you drive, make it a small car for maneuvering the narrow roads and tight parking spots in towns and villages. As much fun as it is to drive in the countryside, avoid taking the car into the city centers by using parking lots on the outskirts or traveling by train.

Our rental car, some of the beautiful scenery, and a not uncommon Ferrari

Staying in a villa

There are certainly many accommodation options in Tuscany, including hotels and B&Bs, but as we learned, villas offer unique ways to truly immerse in the Tuscan experience. And they can be particularly advantageous for family celebrations, reunions, weddings, and other special gatherings. Each villa that we visited or at which we stayed has its distinct characteristics and amenities appealing to different tastes and needs, accommodating a wide range of group sizes, and offering a great variety of services to make a stay special. During our tour of EsteVillas holiday rentals, we were guests of La Novellina in Fiano and Buonvisi in Lucca, and toured several others in northern Tuscany. We’ll share the details of these with you in future posts

Rolling out the red carpet for guests at Villa Buonvisi in Lucca

But beyond all the beautiful vistas, historic towns and cities, and the wonderful food and wine, there were the friendly, helpful and generous people we met throughout our stay.

Have I piqued your interest? Would you like to hear more about our week in northern Tuscany? Do you wonder what it might be like to stay in a Tuscan villa? Stay tuned!

Posted by Catherine Sweeney on june 1 2015

Travelling with Sweeney : A Touch of Tuscany

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Villas around Florence : Novellina, Egle, Borgorosa, Mattei

Villas in Lucca and Versilia Area : Santandrea , Buonvisi, Fattoria, Elisabetta

Wines : Pasolini Dall’Onda Barberino val d’Elsa (FI) tel +39 055 8075019

Gelato: Pappagrappa Capannori Lucca tel +39 0583 909 555

Cheese Producer: Fattoria Corzano e Paterno San Casciano Firenze tel +39 055 8248 179

Marble Quarries Tour by Serena Giovannoni Estevillas Travel Consultant

Alice Dami villa host, cook and a concierge in Lucca, Tuscany

Susanna Civeli cook and a concierge at la Novellina, Tuscany

Wine Store: Vino e Convivio Capannori, Lucca tel+ 39 0583 403573

Restaurants on Lake Maggiore

24 March 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Food & Wine, Restaurants

Restaurants Lake Maggiore

You know the trusted friends you call when you need a restaurant reccomendation? That’s us.

Close to Arona

Aldo Piazza Del Popolo 32,| 28041, Arona –NO – tel +39 0322-243195 – Right on the city square, excellent pizza. Remind to reserve in advance (25/30 € pp cl Mon)

Antico Verbano S.S. del Sempione, 62 | P.zza Marconi, 28046 Meina –NO tel +39 0322 65718. Lovely setting by the lake and great food (35/40 € pp cl Mon.)

Il Castagneto Via Gianni Vignola, 14 | 28041 Montrigiasco di Arona- NO tel +39 0322 57201 . A traditional Piemontese countryside family-run restaurant, located at the top of Montrigiasco, a little known village, on the outskirts of Arona. Excellent food, great wine , helpful and friendly staff and reasonnable prices. (35/40 € pp cl Mon.)

Hostaria La Speranza via alla cartiera 11, | Solcio di Lesa , No- tel +39 032 277803 – A great dining experience There is no menu, Fabrizia the owner guides you through the menu. (70/80 € pp cl Wedn)

Lo Squero Via Novara 302, | 28078 Romagnano Sesia, tel +39 0163 834961 – One of the best seafood restaurant I have ever tasted. Not easy to find. Worth a detour. Better avoid the weekend (40/45 € cl Mon & Tues )

Serenella : Via Quarantadue Martiri, 5 , Feriolo – Baveno tel +39 0323.28112 . Cold and warm buffet, homemade ravioli of duck, risotti, lake and sea fish, mushrooms and truffles in autumn . (45/50 €)

Restaurants in Lucca

24 March 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Food & Wine, Restaurants

We are not professional food critics. Our opinions are based upon our personal tastes.

You know the trusted friends you call when you need a restaurant reccomendation? That’s us.

Osteria Da Miranda Via Dei Carrozzieri 27, | 55100 Lucca, Italy tel +39 0583.952731 – Typical local restaurant with great local food. indoor / outdoor seating – reservation necessary.

Osteria Pasqualino Gubitosa- Mondovino- Via del moro 8| 55100 Lucca – The passion for good wine and good food. Cl.Tuesday

Trattoria Baffardello Via Nuova per Pisa 1029 | 55100 S. Michele in Escheto, Lucca, tel +39 0583 379319 mobile +39 338 3350905 – Great seafood restaurant right outside Lucca

Enoteca Vino e Convivio Via di Coselli, 4/6 | Guamo, 55060 Capannori, tel +39 0583 403573 – A winery, 3000 different wines and champagne, 4 rooms, 4 tables,

Ciclo Divino Via Michele Rosi 7, Lucca, Italy tel +39 0583471869 – Happy Hour : A bike shop that sells great wine and great food. essentially you get wine by the glass and small “bites” for 1 euro/piece or 10 for only 7/euro

Prospero via S Lucia 13 Lucca – Local food tasting at Prospero, an extremely ancient and typical grain shop

Franklin Via San Giorgio,43, 55100, Italy tel +39 328 4677416 – Happy Hour

Lucca: Eat, Drink and Shop as the Locals Do

19 March 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Food & Wine, Itineraries, Shopping

Lucca Amphitheatre Piazza – Estevillas Holiday Rentals

My friend Gianna takes us on an insider’s tour of Lucca’s best spots to grab a bite, a drink—and maybe a leather jacket or a fancy pair of Italian designer eyeglasses.

Gianna lives in an historic villa with a beautiful garden just a few minutes’ drive from Lucca. She is a real fashionista. She loves to find authentic small restaurants and “trattoria” where she can feel at home. She knows the best places to shop in the area for food, wine and fashion.

Lucca is a unique and very special town, a hidden surprise for visitors who come here for the first time. The location couldn’t be better: the Appennine mountains behind, the sandy beaches just a stone’s throw away and Pisa and Florence very close too.

The approach to Lucca involves venturing through the massive medieval walls that encircle the town. They are wide, lined with trees, restaurants, playgrounds, and tons of seating, creating a sort of suspended ring to jog, bike, run or simply relax while watching people wander the little narrow roads inside the walls.

Biking on the Lucca Walls

Most of the city is closed to automobile traffic. Locals bike or stroll instead of driving, gather in the cafés and wine bar and peruse the open street market. You can easily hire a bike and have tour of the city walls by yourself or decide to take a guided tour, which will add a lot to the experience by showing nice places outside the city.

We park outside the city walls and walk through the gate into the city.

“Don’t say that you have been to Lucca if you haven’t eaten Taddeucci’s Buccellato!”

Buccellato Taddeucci Lucca

The Buccellato is the most typical and well-known cake of Lucca. It is a ring-shaped tasty sweet bread with raisins and aniseed, smothered in a mixture of sugar and egg. It was the traditional dessert for Sunday lunch in most Lucchese homes.

For 131 years Taddeucci Bakery has stood in Piazza San Michele, the heart of Lucca and a fascinating place full of history. It was here in 1881 that Lucca’s baker, Jacopo Taddeucci, created the delicacy he is so famous for.

Today you can find the Buccellato in any bakery, but the original recipe is still a Taddeucci’s secret, handed down from father to son.

Two other bakeries make a worthwhile stop. The first is Forno a Vapore Amedeo Giusti (or simply Giusti) on via S Lucia. The tiny and always packed shop is the best place for their unforgettable dark brown, multi-grain focaccia. Stand in line, grab a number and wait for your order of the rich flat bread.

Sweet Vegetable Tarte- Chifenti

Chifenti on via San Paolino is where you can sample some surprising vegetable tarts—sweet, not savory!—a Lucca specialy.

Our path takes us to Via Fillungo, the main shopping street lined with many upscale boutiques, but Gianna moves quickly on and stops in front of one of the oldest shops in Lucca. Carli jewelry, first opened in 1655 and passing from generation to generation, is still furnished and decorated as it was in the 18th century. (Carli Via Fillungo #95 Lucca)

A little farther down the street at number 58 is Antico Caffe Di Simo, the historic coffee house where a stop for an espresso or a cappuccino is a must. It was here that Giacomo Puccini, the great opera composer, regularly gathered with other artists at the beginning of the 20th century. The café keeps the atmosphere of 100 years ago unchanged, as if Puccini will once again walk through the door.

Just off via Fillungo is Pizzicheria La Grotta, a triumph of regional food. The deli is stocked with delicious pecorino cheeses, some old, some fresh and young, soft cheese, prosciutto, salami, and pickled vegetable jam to be served with savory food.

Next stop is the famous traditional dried beans and seed shop Antica Bottega di Prospero, Via Santa Lucia 13.

Antica Bottega da Prospero Zuppa Lucchese

We continue our tour leading to Ottica Vogue for a pair of Italian sunglasses…super chic sunglasses.

Superchic sunglasses Ottica Vogue Lucca

It is lunchtime and Gianna takes us to a….bike shop…a pleasant and quirky surprise. It is a funny place where you can buy bikes, great wine and great food all together in the same shop! You get wine by the glass and small “bites” for 1 Euro/piece or 10 for only 7 Euro. The welcoming and friendly Ciclo Di Vino is so popular for happy hour that the crowd spills out onto the Street.

Ciclo di Vino – Lucca , Bikes and Wine !

After our drink, it is time to get back to the car, as Gianna wants to show us one of the most renowned leather factories in Tuscany, La Pelle, which houses a large selection of clothing made of soft and fine quality leather by expert artisans. They also provide a prompt made-to-measure service and ship all over the world. I fell in love with a red leather jacket, it was just so cool and different from all the other ones I saw around.

The afternoon is gone! Time to go back to Gianna’s house where in my beautiful bedroom I will rest like a princess….

Gianna’s villa in Lucca – Estevillas Holiday Rentals

Villa Buonvisi Lucca

Antica Bottega di Prospero – via S Lucia 13- 55100 Lucca.

Ciclo Di Vino – Via Michele Rosi 7

Carli Jewelry – Via Fillungo 95 Lucca

La Pelle – Via delle Cornacchie 473. – 55100 Lucca. Tel: 0583 955359

Forno Giusti – Via Santa Lucia, 18 -. 55100 Lucca.

Ottica Vogue – Via Fillungo, 4, Lucca LU

Bike rentals – there are many biker rentals in town. Just to mention 2 of them:

Punto Bici Via Crocifisso, 8, 55100 Lucca LU

Cicli Bizzarri Piazza Santa Maria, 32
55100 Lucca (LU) – Toscana – Italia

Lucca Distances: Pisa 17 km/11mls; closest beach 26km/16mls; Forte dei Marmi 34km/21mls ; Florence 78km/48mls

Written by Luisa Castiglioni

Edited by Amay Smith

Southern Sicily – Scicli and Modica: A Day of Sightseeing Promises Delicious Delights

19 March 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Art & Culture, Food & Wine, Itineraries

Scicli Palazzo Beneventano

Take one disastrous earthquake, add in the creativity and exuberant genius of late Baroque architecture to the reconstruction, pour over the charm of the rose-hued carved limestone facades shining honeyed gold at sunset, and mix in the spice of the unexpected taste of chocolate crafted just like the Aztecs.

These are the very special ingredients of my Choco-barocco experience during a day trip to Scicli and Modica.

1693 from the tragedy to re-birth

In 1693, a devastating earthquake—one of the most powerful that had ever struck Italy—destroyed the Noto Valley on Sicily. To rebuild required the efforts of all the region’s inhabitants, not only the aristocracy and clergy but also architects and master stonemasons. Together, they transformed the area into the largest construction site of 18th century Europe and gave rise to a masterpiece: Sicily’s Late Baroque architecture.

Eight of the towns in the area are now included as Unesco’s World Heritage Sites: Scicli, Modica, Ragusa, Noto, Caltagirone, Militello, Val di Catania, Catania and Palazzolo

Scicli (pronounced shi-kli)

Set at a natural crossroad of canyons (and only 8 km from the beach) Scicli is a small off-the-beaten-track town with one of the most intriguing remnants of Sicily’s Baroque period: Palazzo Benventano. The palace’s walls host an array of eccentric, moustachioed faces embroidered on the stones.

Scicli Sicily, holiday, Estevillas Holiday Rentals

Palazzo Beneventano Scicli Southern Sicily – Estevillas Holiday Rentals

For another beautiful example of Baroque architecture, take a stroll down Mormino Penna Street. Notorious for being the set for the tv movie Commissario Montalbano, stopping by the fictional police state on Mormino Penna is a must for fans of the show

For a taste of Sicily, pop into Pasticceria Basile on viale I° Maggio for a traditional Sicilian family pastry from a warmly welcoming staff.

Another culinary indulgence can be found at Pura Follia, home to one of the best pizzas ever at a reasonable price. (Reservations needed)

Chocolate Magic Makes a Stop at Modica!

The city of Modica is Baroque churches and palaces with wrought-iron balconies perched on a hill. Most importantly, it is the home of the singular chocolate prepared using the original Aztec technique brought to Sicily by the Spaniards in the 16^th century.

Modica S.Giorgio Cathedral Cathedral – Estevillas

As it has been for hundreds of years, the cocoa beans are worked at a low temperature so the sugar mixed in does not melt, resulting in the unique grainy texture this chocolate is so famous for. With each bite, you taste pure chocolate with no added cocoa butter, soy lecithin or other food additives. This method of cold-working the beans preserves more nutrients and more flavor.

For those needing an excuse to indulge—because one chocolate is never enough—eating 10 grams of Modica chocolate is reported to improve vascular function and make artieries more elastic. This is in addition to dark chocolate’s well-known antihypertensive properties. So no need to feel guilty!

Modica Chocolate, Sicily , holiday, Estevillas Holiday Rentals

Modica Chocolate Tasting in Antica Dolceria Bonajuti

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, Sicily’s oldest and most famous chocolate factory, is not to be missed. With its old fashioned ambience, you can experience Modica chocolate as if you had stepped into ancient Mexico. Savour the cinnamon, vanilla and chili chocolate in true Aztec style or be tempted by more exotic flavor combinations such as rosemary, white pepper, cardamom, salt and orange. Another speciality offered by this magic place is the cannoli made with fresh ricotta and pistachios. They are simply awesome.

After your visit to Antica Dolceria Bonajuti you can stop into nearby Osteria dei Sapori Perduti for a quick lunch of Sicilian specialities. Try the Scacce, thin layers of a pizza-like dough filled with many different combinations (simply with tomato sauce, or with onions, spinach, or cheese) or the Caponata with eggplant, bell peppers, tomatos, onions, olives, capers, pine nuts, basil, vinegar, oil, salt and pepper.

Scicli:

From Scicli to Marina di Ragusa 16 km/10ml – From Scicli to Modica 10km/6,5 ml

Pasticceria Basile Viale I Maggio, 3, 97018 Scicli, Sicilia, Italia (Closed on Thursday)

Pizzeria Pura Follia Piazza Busacca snc, 97018 Scicli, Sicily, Italy +39 339 8476585

Modica:

From Modica to Marina di Ragusa 34km/21,6 ml

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto Corso Umberto I 159 Modica http://www.bonajuto.it/en/

Osteria dei Sapori Perduti Corso Umberto I, 228, 97015 Modica RG tel +39 0932 944247

Where to stay; click here

Written by Luisa Castiglioni

Edited by Amay Smith

Taking the Kids — and visiting Mantua, a hidden Italian gem. Fox News Jan 9 2015

10 January 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Art & Culture, Food & Wine, Itineraries, Kids, Restaurants

Manota Palazzo Te : Room of the Giants

By Eileen Ogintz

Published January 09, 2015· FoxNews.com

After all, I’m staying in a palace — the Palazzo Castiglioni, which dates back to the Renaissance, located right across the piazza from the 500-room Palazzo Ducale in Mantua, Italy.

Where? That was my reaction when Kit Burns, whose company Doorways specializes in booking villa vacations to Italy, suggested we spend a few days in the palazzo that has been owned by the same family since the Renaissance, in a city just 40 minutes from Verona. (If you know your Shakespeare, you’ll know this is where Romeo came to buy the poison.)

Today you won’t find that many tourists here, but you will find the quintessential Italian experience — restaurants spilling out onto cobblestoned piazzas, locals starting their morning with a cafe, the weekly market that takes over the entire Piazza Sordello (we see it from our window) selling everything from socks to cheese and sausage. During the Renaissance, we learn, Mantua was famous for its music, art and the powerful Gonzaga family. I’m so glad we’re here but we nearly missed the opportunity. Burns acknowledges that suggesting visitors stop here can be a hard sell when there are so many more famous sites to see in Italy, but that makes Mantua (Mantova in Italian) all the more special. “It’s hard to find a place that’s off the beaten track in Italy,” Burns said. “Here you can immerse yourself in what was and what is.” Without tripping over other tourists, she adds.

At one time, Mantua rivaled Florence for its art. But sadly, the Austrians and then Napoleon stole much of it. There’s still amazing architecture and frescoes like the Camera Picta painted room in the Ducal Palace with huge wall paintings by Andrea Mantegna. There’s the amazing Biblena Theater where Mozart played as a young teen; In June, there is a music festival where chamber musicians play short pieces in the ancient rooms of the Ducal Palace.

I was nervous suggesting Mantua to the extended family traveling with us, but nothing ventured, nothing gained, I thought. The stop turned out to be a high point of the trip. We met Guido, Luisa and their father, Baldesar Castiglioni, whose family own the Palazzo Castiglioni where we stayed (a portrait of their ancestor by Raphael hangs in the Louvre right near the Mona Lisa). There are also impromptu pasta-making lessons in a tiny restaurant outside of town, the local Sbrisolona traditional tart, amazing frescoes in the Palazzo Te, the pleasure palace Federico II Gonzaga, a young duke, built for himself with the help of Raphael’s top pupil Giulio Romano, to get away from his mother — some things never change!

Most important, unlike other Italian cities packed with tourists and cruise passengers, the locals were genuinely glad to see us and show us their city. That’s why in 2015 I’m going to aim to get off the tourist track more — and I encourage all of you to do so as well. Of course, when you let the kids lead the way you always go in new and unexpected directions.

That doesn’t mean you’ll always find a hidden gem — like Mantua — but when you do, you remember why you’re traveling in the first place — to get out of your comfort zone and share something new with those you love most and, of course, eat great food!

Locanda Le Grazie Mntova

“Come see our pasta maker,” said Daniela Bellintani, who with her husband, Fernando, owns the charming La Locanda delle Grazie in the village of Grazie just a few miles outside of Mantua. The pasta maker turned out to be Chef Fernando and three smiling young men who were happy to show us how they make the local specialties — the pumpkin ravioli, which we happily sample along with pasta with homemade duck ragout, an assortment of local salamis and ham and local Lambrusco wine.

“My father says if you don’t share your recipes, they just die with you,” says Anita Aldighieri, the couple’s daughter, explaining their plan to offer cooking classes, including those for families who will want to visit the Santa Maria del Grazie church. This is a church like none other you’ll visit — and one the kids will remember most. Even before the church was built in the 15th century, pilgrims came to pray for miracles. You’ll see the strangest statues of those whose prayers were heard — a man fished out of a well; another who couldn’t be hanged when a beam broke. Perhaps the strangest and what kids love most is the embalmed crocodile hanging from the ceiling that’s at least 500 years old.

Daniela Bellintani Le Grazie Restaurant

Every August, thousands make a pilgrimage of a different sort here for a unique festival during which artists from around the world are chosen to create chalk paintings on 10-by-10-foot squares of pavement about something that relates to the miracle-making Madonna.

Mantova Palazzo Castiglioni in Piazza Sordello

The Castiglioni family — Luisa owns a villa rental management company in Italy — has turned a few rooms of their palazzo into the most unique inn I’ve ever seen. (Think sleeping in a palace room — there is even one with an ancient fresco on the wall — but with all the modern conveniences and breakfast, starting at under $200 a night.) While they don’t want their city overrun with tourists, they certainly would like more people to discover its charms — like the Palazzo Te, which is considered one of the great Renaissance palaces.

Kids love the Hall of Horses with life-sized paintings of some of the young duke’s favorites from the 1520 and the astounding Chamber of the Giants with paintings that cover the walls and ceilings, telling the story of the fall of the giants who tried to climb Mount Olympus. When a big fire was going in this room, we’re told, with light playing on the walls, it was like a Renaissance 4-D experience.

It’s pretty great in the 21st century, too.

Eileen Ogintz is a nationally syndicated columnist and creator of TakingtheKids.com. Her new Kids Guide to Boston is available online and from major booksellers, along with the Kids Guides to NYC, Washington, DC, Orlando, LA and Chicago. Coming later this year: San Diego, San Francisco and Denver

Where : Mantua / Mantova Lombardy Italy – Milano 189km/117ml ; Venice 159 km/85km

Palazzo Castiglioni www.palazzocastiglionimantova.com

Palazzo Te http://www.palazzote.it/ viale Te 13 Mantova Italy

Palazzo Ducale piazza Sordello 40 Mantova

Locanda delle Grazie

Address: Via San Pio X, 2, Grazie MN

Phone: +39 0376 348038

Post production coordinator Sonia Vaccaro

Top places to go to #eat your way through #Italy by Eileen Ogintz

7 January 2015 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Food & Wine, Uncategorized

Fox News Travel video

Everyone loves the food in Italy and there may be no better time to sample it than winter when the crowds are gone.

Hotel rates in cities like Venice are more $50 less in winter, according to Trivago, which tracks hotel rates around the globe. The average rate in Rome between November and January is just $137, Trivago says — significantly cheaper than Paris or London.

Another plus: You won’t bust your budget on meals, nor will haughty waiters make you feel like you don’t belong. You won’t go wrong either with a crusty baguette, salami and cheese for lunch.

Don’t be shy about sharing portions — Italian meals can have several courses with large portions starting with an appetizer, a “primo” that’s a pasta or soup, followed by a “secondo” main course — a meat, fish or chicken dish — and desert. Make your pasta your main dish; skip desert for a gelato shop.

Ask locals you meet — the taxi driver, the tour guide, the front desk clerk–for their suggestions. Check out websites like Home Food, EatWith or Meal Sharing, which connects locals who want to invite visitors for a typical meal.

I discovered on a recent trip, you won’t go wrong with house wines either. But whenever and wherever you go in Italy, make sure to sample local and regional specialties. I asked Italian foodie Luisa Castiglione, who travels the country overseeing her villa rental company, for some advice.

Obviously, if you are in Venice, you’ll eat seafood. Try something you’ve never seen before—maybe cuttlefish or pan fried sardines. Venice is also famous for fried fish. We also had fun at little wine bars where we had the Venetian version of tapas—little toast with various toppings.

Want a spritz? That’s the popular red aperitif you’ll see people drinking everywhere. It’s made with white wine, seltzer and usually Aperol. I admit I wasn’t a fan and usually stuck to wine.

If you love wine, you might want to visit the hill towns south of Turin famous for Barolo or, of course, chianti. Go where your favorite wines are made—pinot grigio in the Trentino region, for example, chardonnay in Lombardy near Milan or Puglia in the South. I usually don’t like lambrusco sparkling wine but loved the locally-made version outside the Renaissance town of Mantua in Grazie. (See what I wrote about our visit.)

Expect most pizza to have a thin crust. Modern pizza was of course invented in Naples but you’ll find all variations everywhere in Italy. Pizza Margherita, people believe, was invented in Naples as a tribute to Queen Margherita who loved the pie made in the colors of the Italian flag — red (the tomato), green (basil) and white (mozzarella cheese). I think the best pizza I’ve ever had was in Naples; it would be fun to rank your pizza and gelatos during your trip. Where did you find the best ever?

Have you tried risotto? It’s a delicious north Italian rice dish cooked in broth until it’s creamy. It can be very rich—lots of butter. In the fall, have Risotto alla Milanese cooked with saffron, suggests Castiglioni. You’ll find every variety of risotto—with seafood, vegetables, sausage.

How about pumpkin-filled ravioli? That’s a specialty in Mantua and Bologna and it was one of my favorites on a recent trip. If you like filled pastas like tortellini and ravioli, you’ll love this region.

Tortellini

In Tuscany, you’ll want to try Pappa al pomodoro (Tuscan Tomato and Bread Soup) that people eat hot or at room temperature. There’s also stewed beef with pepper and garlic that, the story goes, dates back to the 15^th century when Florence’s famous cathedral was being built and the workers making the terracotta tiles used one side of the oven to stew their meat — in wine of course.

In Rome, try Artichokes Roman Style — stuffed with bread, garlic, parsley, Romano cheese and oregano.

There’s only one downside — coming home five pounds heavier. Good thing you’ll be doing so much walking on your trip.

Exploring the Visual and Culinary Delights of Porta Nuova, Milano

10 December 2014 Estevillas 0 Comments Category: Art & Culture, Food & Wine, Itineraries, Shopping

THE PLACE: Milan, Italy

THE ITINERARY: Porta Nuova to Corso Garibaldi, discovering the trendiest places to eat, drink and shop.

Excited to inspect each single inch of the Versace, Armani and Gucci glam boutiques? There is so much more than designer fashion to see in Milan.

The brand new Porta Nuona neighborhood in the center of the city is home to the hippest spots to dine, sip a cocktail or go on a shopping spree.

Porta Nuova is Milan’s main business center, featuring the futuristic Cesar Pelli complex: three glass towers dominating the impressive Piazza Gae Aulenti with fountains, sculptures and elevated arcades that radically change the Milan skyline.

Just a few steps from the complex is Corso Como, the fashion and design street dedicated to shopping and night life. Take your time, as there is a lot to discover.

The gem of the street is 10 Corso Como concept store, not only a fashion and design store but also an art gallery, bookshop, café, restaurant with a roof garden, and fantastic place for an aperitivo or romantic dinner.

For more than 20 years, the three-story location, designed by Kris Ruhs, has been synonymous with the lifestyle of Milan: a philosophy of seeing and shopping that is meant to entice visitors and customers to leave their hurried mood behind and take the time to enjoy finding small treasures.

Promenade through art, design and fashion in a single space. Stroll through the courtyard and then on to the gallery to see an art exhibition, stop for a drink at the café, shop at the store or visit the bookshop and sit to read. The bookshop is one of the city’s best sources for fashion and design related literature. 10 Corso Como is a multifunctional space, a meeting place. It is culture and commerce in one.

Carla Sozzani—journalist, fashion expert, gallery owner (and sister of Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani)—founded 10 Corso Como in 1990. She personally selects all the items, looking for those that are part of the zeitgeist but haven’t yet become popular.

Sozzani’s store is cool but can be quite an expensive experience. If you are looking for some more affordable trendy items, your destination is a little bit farther in a hidden courtyard off XXV Aprile Square: The High Tech Store.

You can find almost anything in this 2000 square meters full of unique and fun house wares, gift ideas, stationery and furnishings. It is a must see, fascinating place.

If your energy is zapped and you start to dream of a place to sit down and something delicious to taste, you are definitely in the perfect place.

Turn left and you are at Eataly, the temple of gourmet Italian food. Housed in the former Smeraldo Theater, the store is dedicated to music in honor of its history and iconic performances.

Eataly consists of 5000 square meters of Italian delicacies on three floors: breads, pastries, fruit and vegetable markets on the ground floor; fish shop, delicatessen, and a butcher on the first floor; a wine area and many restaurants on the second floor, from fried to pizza to seafood, including the Michelin-star restaurant of chef Alice Viviana Varese.

Not quite exhausted yet? Go farther in your adventure. Continue your walk on Corso Garibaldi to number 79 and enter Lipstick Vintage for haute couture clothing and accessories, bags, sunglasses, belts and jewelry. You can buy rare clothing and accessories or search for inspiration in the historic section. In Lipstick Vintage you can find Antonio and Roy, who will provide you with their best advice and expertise.

WHERE : Milano, Porta Nuova

HOW TO GET THERE:

By Subway :

Line 2(Green) Garibadi Station

Line 5 (Blue) Garibaldi Station

line 2 ( Green) Moscova station

by Train :

There are many trains connecting Milano Porta Garibaldi railroad station with Lake Maggiore, Florence or Rome

THE ITINERARY:

Piazza Gae Aulenti to Piazza XXV Aprile = 500 meters

Piazza XXV Aprile to Corso Garibaldi 79 = 700 meters

10 CORSO COMO

http://www.10corsocomo.com/

Corso Como 10

Store: everyday 10:30 am – 7:30 pm

Restaurant and café: 11 am – 1 am

HIGH TECH STORE

Piazza XXV Aprile, 12, 20124 Milano Italy

Phone: 02 624 1101

Open: 10:30 am – 7:30 pm

EATALY

http://www.eataly.net/it_en

Piazza XXV Aprile, 10, 20124 Milano Italy

LIPSTICK VINTAGE

http://www.lipstickvintage.com/en/

Corso Garibaldi, 79, 20121 Milano Italy
Opening times
Mon – Fri | 10:00 am – 12:30 pm | 2:30 pm – 6:30 pm
Sat | 9:30 am – 12:00 am | During winter, Saturday morning only by appointment

Written by Luisa Castiglioni

Edited by Amay Smith